Blindstitch-felling machine.



W. ARBETTER.

BLINDsTlTcH FELLING MACHINE.

Patented Sept. 7, 1915.

6 SHEETS-SHEET l.

"CessasxyW. ARBETTER.

BLINDSTITCH FELLING MAGHJNE.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 2. 190B.

Patented sept. 7,1915.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

CGLUMBIA PLANOURAPM co.. WASHINQTON. D. C.

W. ARBETTER.

BLINDSTITCHJFELLING MACHINE. APPucATlN FILED JUNE 2. i908.

Patented sept.- 7,1915.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

W. ARBETTER.

BLINDSTHCH FELLING MACHINE.

.Us E im@ P m m m M m w m m m M m w ZM 2, @74%, 5 f 1, T

W. ARBETIER.

BLINDSTITCH FELLlNe MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 2| 1908- Patented Sept. 7, 1915.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

W. ARBETTER.

BLINDSTITCH FELLING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 2. 1908.

mman.

Patented Sept. 7, 1915.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

alf( @y COLUMBIA PLANOURAPH Co., WASHINGTON, D. C.

- DSTATES PATENT; OFFICE] won-ry ARBETTER, orCHELsEA, MAssACnUsnrrs.fessiNonTo ABTTER ELLING MACHINE COMPANY, or isos'roN,` MAssAcHUsnTTs'A CORPORATION or MAINE.

' iLINnsTITCH-FELLN'G MACHINE.

ink patent to `Arbetter No. 830,699, grantedl September 11, 1906. y o

The invention is more particularly concernedwith the means for feeding the fab,- ric, although it involves in addition other features. In felling *work a superimposed layer or layersof material, presenting either a raw ora turnecl-in edge arefastened toa main or base layer, as in the case of the fastening ofthe lining of a coatto themain fabric of the coat. The stitchesy are taken usually alternately in the base layer` and in the superimposed layer or layers, and in the latter case the stitches inthe superimposed layer or layers generally do` not passinto the base layer. The main or base layer of fabric is usually yof a different material from the ysuperimposed layer or layers. Often theI base layer is of a comparatively7 rough and thick cloth wherethe superim-l posed layer or layers islof a smoothland thin cloth. It is highly desirable and in many cases necessary to secure a'sa'tisfactory qual-v ity of work that the action ofthe feeding mechanism upon the superimposed layer or layers shall be different from that upon the base layer.

The present invention provides a feeding mechanism which overcomes the diliiculties heretoforel existing in many cases `to the proper feed-ingof felling work through the machine. If afullnessexists in the superimposed la-yer orylayerswith respectto the base layer, or if itis desired to fsecure such a fullness in themaking of a garment the feeding mechanism of this invention either retains the same orprovides therefor. When such fullness is taken care of in an ordinary machine the operator f usually retards the feed of the 'main layer manually and atfthe same time pushes in beneath the presser-foot the upper layer." This results in a stretching' speeicafion of Ltfer Para! f rafentedspt. 7, 1915. applicati@ filed June 2; 190s. vsna1i\r. $436,223.

ofthe main layer andgingthefformation of irregular stitches, both of which. are undesiriableand which are obv-iated by this invenion.k i The invention will more fully 4appear from the accompanying description. and drawings, and will he particularly pointed out in the appended claims. i l

'.lhe drawings represent they entire machine in its preferred form, embodying the present invention,

Y yFigure 1 is a ,side elevation of the forward end of the head of the machine, parts thereof being ybroken away toishow certainportions of the mechanism clearly. Fig. 2 1s an end elevationA of the headfof the machine with the faceplate removed. Fig. 3 is a detail4 in front elevation of aportion ofthe auxiliary feeding device. Fig., l is a top plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 3. Fig. xis atop plan View of the auxiliary feeding device, its slide, and theportionof the head upon whichit is mounted. Fig. 6 is an end elevation of the lever and connected parts for transmitting motion from the shaft kof the machine to the auxiliary feeding device. Fig. 7 is a view of the `double cam for operating the auxiliaryfeedingqdevice. Fig. 8 is an end elevation of a'portion ofthemachine showing the position ofthe `auxiliary feed point, thelower feed dog, needle and presser-foot as the needle starts downward, and before the feed of lthe goods has taken place. Fig. 9 is aview similar to Fig. 8` omitting some of the ydetails below the bedplateY with the parts in position after the feed ofthe ygoodshas taken place and before the needle hasentered the fabric. Fig. 10 is a view' similar toy F ig. 9 with the parts in position with the needle in ther fabric to make the stitch and with the ylowerffeeddog preparing to retract.- Fig. 11 is a View similar to Fig. 9 with the needle withdrawing from the fabric, 'with the lower yfeed ret'ractfv ed preparatory to feeding forward, `and with the auxiliary feed point about yto move forward.` Figs. 12,13, 14 and 15 are views of the fabric land the, point of the auxiliary feeding device showing the "position, relatively to each other undery the conditions illustrated respectively ig"s. 8, 9, 10 and 11.` Figs. 16, 17 and 1,8 4are top plan views of the lower portion of the presser-foot and showing the pointfof the auxiliary' feeding device `in the position shown in Figs. 8, 10

and 11 respectively. Fig. 19 is a top plan view of the lower' feed dog. Fig. QOis a top plan view of 'the lower feed dog and surrounding bed-plate of the machine and of the bender. Fig. 20a is a view of a portion of the bottom of the presser-foot. Fig. 21 is afront end elevation of the lower portion of the machine showing the lower feeding and the bender mechanisms. Fig. 22 is a crosssectional1 elevationof the lower portion of the machine taken on the line -m, of Fig. 24. Fig. 23 is a cross-sectional elevation of the lower portion of the machine taken on the line g/j-i., Fig. 24. Fig. 24: is a bottom plan-view of the machine.

- It is unnecessary here to illustrate and describe -some of the adjunctive mechanisms of the machine, such for Aexample as the tension and theV take-up mechanism, because they are not particularly involved in the present, invention and are fnlly illustrated and described in prior patents, among which may be noted the vaforesaid Patent No. 830,699; neither'will it benecessary here to explain and describe in detail many ofthe parts 4illustrated for the same reason.

In the drawings, A represents Vthe head or forward end of the overhanging arm of the machine provided with a face-plate whichishere shown as removed to expose the interior-parts, and which is held in position byfscrews entering the holes a. 1nk the type of machine illustrated a presser-foot D vsupported from the presserfoot carrier Z4 by the screw cl5-is rigidly connected to the head A, being adjustable vertically by means of'lock-nuts, one of which is 'shown at 15, all' as set forth' in said plllnt. i t l y i The work-support E presenting a flat surface rbeneath the presser-foot projecting slightly above thework-table E2 Aismounted uponY a work-support stand E5, which slides vertically in ways E3 and is normally heldin its elevated position by the spring E4. The work-support is depressed by the lever E5, pivoted at Eland engaging a stud ES projecting fromthestand E5. The lever E5 maybe operated in any suitable manner and for that purpose .a bell-crank lever designed to'beoperated by the knee is piv- -otally mounted at E31 inthe frame of the machine jandyprojects above the end of the lever E5.

y The main .driving shaft A extends horizontally through the head and is provided at its forward end with a pinion'C, adjustably connected thereto by set-screws 01. On the face of the pinion C is mounted a rotarily adjustable, disk B to which is eccentrically connected the needle operating rod B2. A grooved cam, c4 is mounted on a lstub-shaft 014 and driven from the pinion C by a gear C intermeshing therewith. A vertical rock-shaft B1", mounted in the lower portion of the head, carries at its lower end the long transverse bearing B2,

' in which the needle carrying rock-shaft VBT Vis supported. VA curved needle a2, whose curvature is substantially concentric with the axis of the shaft B5, is mounted in the needle carrying arm b', attached to theend of the rock-shaft B5. The needle a2 is given its oscillating movements to enter and leave the fabric by means of a rocker arm B5 connected to the rod B2, and it is bodily given oscillations about the axis of the rockshaft B10, so as to yplace the needle in making one set of stitches parallel, and while making another set of stitches inclined to the line of' feed, by' means of an adjustable connection between the grooved cam c* and the rock-shaft B10. This connection vcomprises a short vertical rockshaft T mounted in a suitable bearing in the head and provided at its lower end adjustably connected thereto by a set-'screw t, Vwith a rocker-arm T. This rocker-arm carries on its upper side a stud T5 which rides inthe groove of the cam c4 and said arm is also slotted longitudinally and a sliding carrier T2 is mounted in said slot and adjustable longitudinally therein by means of the setscrew T5.r The carrier T2 has pivotally mounted thereon a stud T4, which enters the slot of the rocker-arm S fast on the rockshaft B1". Y

The details of that portion ofthe stitchforming mechanism complemental to the needle need not bedescribed. The position of these parts is indicated bythe framework As supporting the revolving hook 'w20 so as to rotate in a plane transverse and oblique to the path of reciprocation 4of the needle and transverse and oblique to the work-support. Y

The main or lower feeding mechanism is of the four-motion type, and its active elements are mounted. in and carried by the work-support stand E5, so that the feed-dog will always have its proper relation with respect tothe work-support E in what ever position the work-support may occupy during the operation of the machine.

The feed-dog F is suitably secured, as by the screws F2, to the horizontal slide F5, horizontally slotted at F4 and held in place Afor horizontal sliding movement in the vertical slide F5 by a face-plate` F5, secured thereto by the screws FT. The vertical slide F5 is mounted to slide vertically in the work-- support stand E5, and` is held in place therein by the face-plate F5 by means of screws F9. n l j The up-and-down or vertical movement is given tothe vfeed-dog by meansfof the rotary cam acting between the ledges F12, F15, projecting from the back of the vertical, slideF5. This cam F10 is carried by a short shaft section'G2, mounted in the bearing G5 i joint with the shaft section G2;

in the vertically-movable work-support stand, and consequently the shaft section G2 partakes of any vertical movement of the work-support stand, and hence` the operation ofthe cam F10 is independent of such vertical movement.

The back-and-forth or horizontalr feeding movement of the' feed-dog is `given by means of a long link H, having one end connected atl-Pto a rocker-arm H3 `projecting from the shaft H4, and connected at its other end at H5 to the horizontal slide F3. The length of this link H is such that any vertical movement given tothe work-support stand will not affect appreciably,thehorizontal movement of the feed-dog. f Movement isfimparted to the shafts G2 Aand H4 for giving the rvertical and horizontalmovements to they feed-dog from the mainfdrivingshaft A 'of the machine. A vertical. shaft atthe rear end of the machine is geared to the main shaft A byy gearing not necessary-to show herein, and carries at its lower end the ybevel gear G4, intermeshing with the bevel gear G5, faston the shaft section j G6, journaled in bearings G, GS. y

The shaft section G is connected yby a universal joint to a. shaft section G1, which in turnlis connected by a second yuniversal The shaft section G2 is therefore driven directly, yand the intermeshingfsection G allowsk for the,

vertical movement of the work-support stand in which the kshaft section G2 is mounted H i The shaft section G carries a cam -H5 which operates one arm H6 of the bell-crank lever' fulcrumed at H7, and khaving its other arm H8 slotted to receive therein one end H of a lever I 10, pivoted at its opposite end lH12 to a rocker-arm H13, attached to the shaft H4. It will thus be seen that the cam H5 acts to rock the shaft H4 to give the horizontal movement to the feed-dog, and thatthis movement may be adjusted by varying the position of the end H of the link in the slot of the arm `H8. `AplinkH14 is shown ywhich can be operated and adjusted in any suitable manner to determine the amount of adjustment of the feed.

The bender issimilar in yconstruction and operation to thatshown in the above-mentioned patent, andv operates upon each movementof the needle tofform the stitch in the single or base layer, to project the material into `the rpath ofthe needle. rlphis bender L is carried by a `bender-support L2, mounted to` slide vertically in vbearings L37 in the face-plate E20, which is fastened to the work-support stand by ksuitable screws E21, andserves to `retain the vertically-movable work-support stand E5 in its ways. f

`The bender is` given its vertical movement bymeans of a studL, 'actingf'between the projections on'the bender-support and earried by` a rocker-arm L5, mounted on the rock-shaft L6, which is provided at Lits 0pposite end with the arm L7 acting against the camLS, `carried. by the bender-shaft L9.

The shaft L9 is drivenby two-to-one gearing fromr the shaft section GG so'that there is one revolution of the cam L8 to each two movements of the feed, and consequently the bender has one movement to each two movements of the feed or to each two reciprocations of the needle. k:The rock-shaftLG is provided with a third arm L10, anda strong spring L12 adjustable yby the setscrew L13 `connects the end: of the arm L10 to the frame ofthe machine.V The spring L12 acts to raise the bender and the cam L*3 acts `to depresswit. `The-bender is hence given one upward `reciprocation to each two reciprocations of the needle, yand this movement of the bender is given at `the time the 'ward and backward movements by suitable mechanism in proper timing to secure the desired results. Thismecha-nism fory operating the feeding point is herein shown as mounted in the overhanging arm and operated directly from the main driving shaft. The feeding point P is carried at the lower end of a vertically-arranged arm P2, shaped so as not to interfere with `the needle-operating parts. This arm` is mounted to slide vertically in the part P3 which in turn is mounted to slide horizontally in the machine head.k rfhe armi)2 is provided on one face with `a vertical fin P1* by which it is guidedy in its vertical sliding' movement in a corresponding vrecess ink the horizontal `slide P3, and it is extended laterally and slotted at Psto present horizontal edges P, against which the cam P7, carried bythe stub-shaft FS acts to give the desired vertical movement. s

The horizontal slide P3 is slotted at each end and guided thereby on studs or projections Pg of the y.machine head and held in place thereon by plates P10. The horizontal slide P3 is retracted by means of the spring P1?, and is `given its forward movement by the cam P13, acting against the edge P11 of an opening formed therein. The cam 'P13 iscai'ried bythe same stub-shaft PS as'the cam P1, and these` `cams are so related to 13ovrrk each other and to the shaft Ps as to secure the required up and down and backwardand-forward movements and the proper timing of the feed point.

,The-*stub-shaft PS extends through the machine head to the rear thereof where it carries a slotted crank-arm P15. The shaft P8 is rotatedby means of a lever P15, slotted at P17 to slide and rock on the fulcrum pin P15, and having its lower end provided with a stud P12, engaging the slot of the crank arm P15, lwhile its upper end is formed intov an eccentric strap P20, surrounding the eccentric P21. The eccentric P21 is integral with or fast to a disk P22, loosely mounted on the main shaft A. Y

A hubl P23 is made fast to the shaft A by means of a setV screw P22. A clutch-disk P25 is keyed at P26 to slide upon the hub P22, and is slotted at P27 to receive the stud P28 in the yoke P22, pivoted at P20- to the head. .The clutch-disk P25 is provided with two pins of different sizes P21, P52, adapted to engage holes of corresponding size in the disk P22. When, therefore, the clutch-disk P25 is shiftedso that the pins P51 and P22 engage the holes in the disk P22, the eccentric P21 will be rotated with the shaft A, andthe auxiliary feeding mechanism will be operated. When for any reason it is de'- sired to throw out of operation the auxiliary feeding mechanism the clutch-disk is shifted to disengage the pins and thus stop the movement ofthe eccentric P21. i

In Vorder to retain the auxiliary feeding mechanism when out of operation in elevated` position a spring-depressed pin P10 is provided which when released is forced downwardly and seats in therecess P41 in the top of the eccentric strapP20.

The presser-foot D is of the same general construction as that shown in the aforesaid patent, but arranged to provide for the operation of the auxiliary feeding device. At its heel portion it carries the guide D2 for the edge of the superimposed layer or layers, and at its toe portion it is provided with a guard-plate D2. The needle in making the stitches rubs lightly against the rear portion DA1 of the needle-throat, and the forward' portion D5 ofthe needle-throat is of sufficient width to allow of the swinging of the needle from the straight to the diagonal stitch. The feeding pointv acts in line with that portion of the presser-foot which is above the superimposed layer or layers.

- This portion. of the presser-foot has the beveled extension D12 which serves to guide the superimposed layers therebeneath. The body portion of that portion of the presserfoot beneath which the feeding point P acts is also beveled for a short distance as shown at D13. This latter beveled portion B13 enables the feeding point to push or crowd the superimposed layer or layers of material beneath the presser-foot, as already described. The forward movement of the feeding point terminates about at the endof this beveled portion D12.

The feed-dogF is provided with the usual serrations, and these are so arranged as to act upon the fabric at all points beneath the presser-foot and insure its being fed forward regularly and evenly. The feed-dog also carries a smooth-faced presser' R,Yhere in termed an auxiliarypresser foot which is held upwardly by a strongY leaf-spring R2, fastened at R5 to the rear end of the feeddog. This presser presents a surface extending over the entire range of action of the feeding point P, and is adapted to coperate therewith and hold the work firmly thereagainst, without retarding the work during the operation ofthe feeding point P. The fact that the .presser is made yielding by means of the spring R2 enables the proper operation of the feed-dog F against the lower surface of the work. If the feeding point in its downward motion coperated with the feed-dog F alone theresult would be to depress the feed-dog and with it the entire vertically-yielding work-support, thus preventing the proper action of the feed-dog upon the lower surface when the feeding movement of the feed-dog occurred. AThe upper surface of the presser arm is made smooth in order that the feed point when having its movement thereover independent of the movement of the feed-dogpshall not injure or mar the fabric.

The operation of the machine will be clear from the foregoing, but it may be well here to call attention in particular to the operation, of ythe feeding instrumentalities upon the material in connection with the movementsof the needle. The operation will best appear from Figs. 8-,202L of the drawings.

In Figs. S, 12 and 16 thei feeding point P is shown at itsV extreme lower and forward position with its point beneath the-beveled portion D13 of the presser-foot, holding the superimposed layer slightly bunched up and crowded beneath the presserfoot, I the' feed-dog F being in its elevated and retracted position ready to begin the forward main feeding movement. The feed-dog F now moves forwardly to give the main feed to the goods until the feed-dog F assumes the position shown in Fig. 9; in its forward movement the feed-dog F carries forward not onlyV the base or'main layer of the fabric, but also the upper layers, and at the same time straightens out or removes the fullness caused inthe upper layers by the feeding point, thus securing the proper feeding of both layers under themain presser-foot and maintaining the desired relation between the two layers. The feeding point now retracts and moves upwardly teclear itself from the beveled `portion D15 ofthe presser-foot, :and

`continues its 4movement untilit reaches its uppermost `pos1tion,as shown in Figs. 9, 13

and 17,; while the feeding point is thus ineving upward from beneath the kpresser-,foot the feed-dog completes its forward movement1 if necessary, and vremains in its up.- wtjard positionuntil there is no danger of the feeding point disturbing the goods while moving from beneath the presser-foot, although the path of retraction of the feeding point l is different from the path which it had in moving beneath the presser-foot, but bythe time the feeding point reaches its 'uppermost position shown in Fig. 9 the feeddog F is lowered, as shown 1n F 1g.y 9, pre` .with the base layer, the presser R being beneath the feeding point. The feeding'point is next moved forward, acting above and against vthe -yielding presser-arm, and slightlypushes or puckers the upper layer and finally crowds it in that condition beneath the beveled portion D13 of the presserfoot until the parts assume the position already described, asy shown in Figs.A 8, 12 and 1G. e l

It will be seen that the auxiliary feeding device, especially when cooperating with the auxiliary presser foot, constitutes a means for compensating for the irregular retarding action of the presser foot yupon the upper surface of the goods.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by lietters Patent, is: l

1. A blindstitch sewing machine for felling a superimposed layer or layers of lfabric to a base layer, comprising a work-support, a reciprocating needle and complemen'tal stitch-forming mechanism located and operative at one side of said work-support, independent feeding instrumentalities acting upon the opposite faces of the fabric, and means for operating them to give a feeding movement to the upper instrumentality when the lower is substantially at rest, and then to give a feeding movement to the lower instrumentality.

2. A blindstitch sewing machine for felling a superimposed layer or layers of fabric to a base layer, comprising a work-support, a reciprocating needle and complemental stitch-forming mechanism located and operative yat one side fof saidl work-support,y a

layers will be fedforward' slightly independently of the base layer.

A blindstitch sewing maching for felling a superimposed layer or layers offabric to a base layer, comprising a work-support, a reciprocating `needle and complemental stitch-forming'mechanism located and operative at one side of said work-support, a presser-foot adapted to rest on the upper surface of the fabric, a main feeding device f operating againstthe lower surface of the fabric,'an auxiliary feedingdevice operating against the upper surface ofthe superimposed layers, an auxiliary presser-foot .mounted to yieldvertically with respect to `the work support and adapted to rest against the lower surface of lthe fabric beneath the auxiliary feeding device, and means to operate/the auxiliary feeding device `to cause it to contact with the upper vsurface of the lsuperimposed layersl and moveforward relatively to the auxiliary presser-foot andtuck the upper' layer under the presser-foot resting upon the upper surface of the fabric. o f

4. A blind-stitch sewing machine for yfelling a superimposed layer `or layers of fabric toa base layer, comprising a work-support, areciprocating needle and complementalfstitch-forming mechanism located and operative at one side of said work-support, a ypresser-foot and an auxiliary feeding device locatedon the same side of the worksupport f the vstitch-forming -mechanism, the ysaid auxiliary feeding device adapted to act onlyYV on the superimposed layer, a main feeding device and an auxiliary presser-foot carried thereby located on the opposite side of the work-support, means to operate the auxiliary feeding device while the main feeding device is in substantially retracted position to cause it to descend and clamp the fabric against the auxiliary presser-foot, and then to move forward, means for thereafter causing the completion of the feeding movement of the main feeding device.

5. A yblindstitch sewing machine for felling a superimposed layer or layers of fabric to a base layer, comprising a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism located and operative at one side of said work-support, a presser-foot adapted to rest upon the upper surface of the fabric, a main feeding 'device operating against said presser-foot,

and means for giving it the usual four motion feeding movement, an auxiliary presserfoot carried by said feeding device, an auxiliary feeding device acting on the upper surface of the superimposed layer or layers and coperating with said auxiliary presserfoot, means for moving the auxiliary feeding device to cause it to descend upon and clamp the fabric against the auxiliary presser-foot, and to move the upper layers forward upon said auxiliary presser-foot, and prowd them slightly beneath the presseroot. 6. A blindstitch sewing machine for felling a superimposed layer or layers of fabric to a base layer, comprising a work-support, a reciprocating needle and complemental stitch-forming mechanism located and operative at one side of said work-support, a main feeding device located opposite to the stitch-forming mechanism, an auxiliary feeding device located on the same side of the work-support as the stitch-forming mechanism, and adapted to only operate on the superimposed layer or layers, means for giving four motion feeding movements to each of said feeding devices, the said feeding movements being so arranged that the first and main portion of the forward feeding movement of the auxiliary feeding device occurs while the main feeding device is retracted and substantially at rest.

7. A blindstitch sewing machine for felling a superimposed layer or layers of fabric to a base layer, comprising a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism located and operative at one side of said work-support, a presser-foot mounted upon the same side as, and a main feeding device mounted 0n the opposite side of the work-support from,

vthe stitch-forming mechanism, a springing work-support stand, a lower feed dog mounted in and carried by said stand, means for giving feeding movements to the feed dog independently of the stand, and a lower presser foot mounted in, carried by, and vertically yielding with respect to, said feed dog.

9. A blindstitch sewing machine for felling a superimposed layer or layers of fabric to a base layer, comprising independent feeding instrumentalities acting upon the opposite faces of the fabric, means for operating them independently, means for suspending the operation of the upper instrumentality.

10. A blindstitch sewing machine for felling a superimposed layer or layers of'fabric to a base layer, comprising independent feeding instrumentalities acting upon the opposite' faces of the fabric, means for operating them independently, means for suspendingl the operation of the upper instrumentality,and means for locking the upper feeding mechanism in fixed position when suspended.

l1. A sewing machine, comprisinga worksupport, a feed dog mounted therein, means for giving the feed dog feeding movement relative to the work-support, a presser foot mounted in, carried by, and vertically yielding with respect to, said feed dog.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WOLF ARBETTER.

Witnesses:

MABEL PARTELOW, THOMAS DRUMMOND.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of latents, Washington, I). C. 

